Day 30: Grand Tetons

Yellowstone National Park—Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming

We tried to wake up early to see meteors but we were too tired again. We woke up at the usual time, eight-ish, packed everything, and headed for Grand Teton National Park. We stopped at the same meadow where we saw the buffalo dancing two days ago. There was a herd of buffalo eating this morning. We could still see dew on the grass and it was cool enough to see the steam rising from the hot springs above the distant tree line. We continued on through Madison for the last time, then through West Thumb again.

It's a 70 mile drive just to get out of Yellowstone. Once out of Yellowstone we were on the eight mile John D. Rockefeller, Jr. National Memorial Parkway. This park connects Yellowstone with the Tetons. The roads in Yellowstone desperately need work. It was a relief to drive on nice roads after the last two days in Yellowstone. We crossed the headwaters of the Snake River, which winds its way through the Tetons and into Idaho and Washington.

It was about 11:30 by the time we entered Grand Teton National Park, two and a half hours after we left this morning. We looked at the Lizard Creek Campground but it looked pretty full so we continued down the road. We pulled into Colter Bay and asked the ranger in the campground for her best site, they assign sites here. She gave us D95, and it was pretty good. Close to the bathroom yet somewhat secluded as well. The Teton Range lies before us and in between is Jackson Lake.

We needed something to eat. Passed by Signal Mountain Lodge but it was too expensive and not really a place for campers who haven't showered since Seattle. We drove up Signal Mountain Road, a thin, curvy road that makes its way up to the top of the 7,600 foot Signal Mountain for a spectacular view of the Teton Range and a description of the different geologic features in the park.

The Tetons are here today because of movement along the fault at the mountain's base. This has been occurring over millions of years and the result is the pushing up of the crust under the mountains. The total displacement along the fault is 30,000 feet. This means the rock that makes up the Tetons can be found 30,000 feet below the surface of the valley. One remnant of the ancient seaway that covered this area millions of years ago remains. Atop Mt. Moran, one of the higher peaks, a layer of sandstone remains; its corresponding layer in the valley is 24,000 feet underground. Glaciers helped sculpt the mountains and erode away the layers of sedimentary rock. The glaciers also carved out the holes where the lakes that are beside the mountains now exist.

The location of trees in the park show where the moraines are. A moraine is the deposit of junk dragged by a glacier. When a glacier moves it drags along with it rocks, dirt, trees, et cetera and they are left when the glacier retreats. Otherwise it is just grassy, with the soil being dry and rocky. The only glaciers that remain today are in upper elevations. From Signal Mountain we could see all these effects, the moraines, the lakes, and the glacier-capped mountains.

We continued south, still in search of food. We took a little side road that goes to Jenny Lake. There were several turnouts along the way each looking over the lake at the mountains. Still going south we ended up at the bottom of the park at the Moose Village Visitor Center. There was a snack bar across the road. Unfortunately, the food wasn't that great and neither were the prices for that matter. We sat down and looked over the maps to decide what we wanted to do in the park. We were close to the Death Canyon Trailhead so we decided to explore this trail. We drove out Wilson Road and onto the dirt road which wasn't recommended for low vehicles, but we made it.

The Death Canyon Trail starts in thick forest. At times the trail was almost overgrown, you couldn't see the ground it was so thick with plants. We passed a mother moose and her child feeding on plants. It was hot still, a little humid too. The trail wound its way past tiny brooks and made its way up out of the valley to the Phelps Lake Overlook a mile later. By now the forest was primarily evergreen trees but it varied a lot as the trail continued on. After this, it was back down and into Death Canyon. It was somewhat level and the trail was nice, it followed a mountain stream. We hiked in for about two or three miles through the wide canyon, over rock fields and next to waterfalls. We went to the Death Canyon Patrol Cabin and then came back. Unfortunately this was not a loop trail unless we were going to be spending the night out here and we weren't going to do this. Talked to some interesting people on the trail, one guy from Washington DC who comes out here often recommended some things we should do in the park and in the area.

As we walked back the sun was behind the mountains and it was getting darker. We were walking on one of the rock fields and came around a corner and coming at us on the trail were a mother and baby moose, probably the same ones we'd seen earlier on the trail. If it was the same pair, they'd gone a long way. There was really no where to go on this narrow part of the trail. On either side of the trail were boulders lying on a steep slope. We decided to climb up the rocky mountainside and let them pass, and they did, mother shielding her baby all the way. We were only about 20 feet from these moose and it was quite remarkable to see nature this close. Seeing them this close made me realize that moose are funny looking, definitely not a graceful looking animal.

By the time we made it back to the car it was about 7 P.M. and we figured we'd walked about eight miles today. Went back to camp and cooked dinner; another interesting combo, spaghetti and carrots.